Anabaptists on the Galleys
During a tour of Europe, my family and I visit Alexander Basnar in Austria. He is not only an expert on Anabaptist history but also a committed Anabaptist himself. Today, he takes us to the ruins of Falkenstein Castle, not far from Vienna. Falkenstein is a reminder of a dark chapter in Austrian history. Around 150 peaceful Anabaptists met a cruel fate here.
The Suffering Begins
Even from a distance, we can see the castle rising majestically above the surrounding countryside. Together with his Hutterian Historical Society, Basnar has set up an exhibition here documenting the history of the Anabaptists whose ordeal began at this very place.
Wearing a large black felt hat, simple black clothing and a long beard, he immediately catches our attention. “This is roughly how the Anabaptists in this region used to dress,” Basnar explains. They were Hutterites, members of the Anabaptist movement who sought to live according to the example of the first Christian community in Jerusalem. They shared all their possessions.
“The Truth Is Immortal”
We are standing in the Täufergwölb (Anabaptist Vault), one of the few roofed rooms in the otherwise largely dilapidated castle. The first thing that catches my eye is a large inscription: “The Truth Is Immortal.”
The Anabaptists were convinced that they had found the truth and were unwilling to compromise their beliefs. For example, they baptized only believers who were old enough to make a conscious decision for themselves, rather than baptizing infants. This led to the arrest of around 150 Anabaptists by imperial troops in nearby Steinebrunn in December 1539. They were subsequently brought to Falkenstein Castle.
90 Men Sentenced to the Galleys
After six weeks of imprisonment, torture and interrogation, a decision was made: the adult men among the prisoners—90 in total—were to be sent to the galleys. They were to serve as galley slaves aboard a warship, chained to their rowing benches for the rest of their lives.
The fate of these 90 men is the central focus of the exhibition at this historic site. We now take a look at the songs and letters that emerged from this tragic chapter.
From Suffering to Song
Basnar points to a song written by one of the imprisoned Anabaptists during the long journey to the galleys. Then, quite unexpectedly, he begins to sing the first verse: “Lord God, Father in Heaven ...”
The song tells of the arduous march of the imprisoned Anabaptists from Falkenstein Castle to Trieste, where they were to face their fate as galley convicts.
Basnar's distinctive appearance and powerful, compelling voice make the weight of this historical tragedy almost tangible.
As a recognized expert on Anabaptist hymns, he has already reconstructed numerous melodies from these historical songs. Some of them have been published in the hymnbooks used by his community.
Farewell to Their Loved Ones
“This picture comes from the Dutch Martyrs Mirror,” he explains. “It shows the 90 condemned men saying goodbye to their wives and children here at the castle in 1540. For most of them, it was a final farewell.”
The women and children were allowed to return to their communal farmsteads, where they had to provide for themselves from that point onward.
Hutterites Preserve Their History
“The most important sources for this exhibition are the Martyrs Mirror and the Great Chronicle of the Hutterian Brethren,” Basnar tells us.
He has visited Hutterite communities in the United States several times and is very familiar with this Anabaptist group.
“The original handwritten manuscript of the chronicle is kept at the Bon Homme Hutterite Colony in South Dakota, USA. What we have on display here is only a copy,” he explains, pointing to a large book behind glass.
Six Weeks in the Cave
I ask Basnar where the imprisoned Anabaptists were held almost 500 years ago. He leads us down a few steps into a brightly lit cave carved out of the rock, with several passageways and alcoves. Bats hang from the ceiling.
I imagine how eerie this place must have been without any light.
“This is where they were imprisoned for six weeks,” he tells us.
Imagining What the Anabaptists Felt
By now, it has grown dark outside. A light drizzle is falling, and a cold wind blows around us as we emerge from the cave.
“This weather is fitting for what happened at this castle,” Basnar remarks.
I look around and see the dark, wet walls surrounding us. I have to agree with him.
Rowing Until Death
As we make our way toward the castle exit, I think of the weeping women and children who stood here, saying goodbye to their loved ones for the last time.
On our way out, we pass a full-size replica of a galley that we had already seen at the beginning of our tour. It is a wooden warship with long oars extending from its sides.
“Being sentenced to the galleys was effectively a death sentence,” Basnar explains. Under inhumane conditions, the prisoners were chained to their benches and forced to row relentlessly until they died.
This was now the fate awaiting the 90 Anabaptists. However, 81 of them managed to escape before reaching the galleys. According to information in the exhibition, twelve of those escapees were recaptured and eventually perished miserably aboard the galleys. The fate of the others remains unknown.
A Matter Close to His Heart
“The mayor of the village was very receptive to our idea of establishing an exhibition about the Anabaptists here,” Basnar tells us as we walk back to the car.
The project received funding from several public institutions.
“Every year, around 5,000 people visit this place,” he says with satisfaction.
It is a matter close to his heart to show visitors what happened here. He also wants them to understand why the Anabaptists were willing to endure suffering and persecution. They were prepared to die for their convictions. Their hope in life after death could not be taken away from them.
For them, one thing was certain: “The Truth Is Immortal.”
No Victim Mentality
As we drive to his home afterward, Alexander Basnar is sitting beside me.
There is one thing he particularly wants to emphasize:
“We don't want to see ourselves as victims. That doesn't help us move forward.”
I understand what he means. The injustice inflicted on the Anabaptists at that time should never be forgotten. Yet remembering their suffering should not lead today's Hutterites to see themselves as victims.
From his personal encounters, Basnar knows that despite this painful history, the Hutterites do not harbor hatred.
Sources and Further Reading
Historical Books and Chronicles
The Martyrs Mirror (1660).
Rudolf Wolkan (ed.): Geschicht-Buch der Hutterischen Brüder (1923).
A. J. F. Zieglschmid (ed.): Die älteste Chronik der Hutterischen Brüder (1943).
A. J. F. Zieglschmid (ed.): Das Klein-Geschichtsbuch der Hutterischen Brüder (1947).
Organizations and Online Resources
Hutterian Historical Society, Vienna: https://www.taeufer.net
Global Anabaptist Mennonite Encyclopedia Online: https://gameo.org
Municipality of Drasenhofen: https://www.drasenhofen.at
Falkenstein Castle Ruins and Anabaptist Vault: https://www.weinviertel.at/ausflug-freizeit/burgruine-falkenstein
Reinhold Eichinger: “Von Falkenstein auf die Galeeren,” in: Das Weinviertel. Mehr als Idylle, 2013, pp. 186–189.
Personal Source
Interview and guided tour with Alexander Basnar, member of the Hutterian Historical Society, at the ruins of Falkenstein Castle, Austria.
Photos: All photographs taken by the author.
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